Feed the soil, not just the trees

As the sap begins to rise and buds swell, your woodland garden is waking up. Before you reach for the pruning saw, start at ground level. A generous spring mulch does more for tree health than almost any other job. It suppresses weeds, locks in moisture and, as it breaks down, feeds the soil web of fungi, bacteria and invertebrates that trees depend on.

Use well-rotted leaf mould, garden compost or a bark-based mulch. Spread a layer 5–8cm deep around trees and shrubs, but keep it clear of trunks and stems – a mulch volcano can soften bark and invite disease. For newly planted trees, mulch out to the drip line if you can. On heavy clay, fork the ground lightly first to break any pan, then mulch. On sandy soils, a mulch of composted bark will hold moisture through dry spells.

Prune with purpose

Spring is a good time to remove dead, diseased or damaged wood – the three Ds. Do this before leaves fully emerge, when the framework of the tree is still visible. Use sharp, clean secateurs or a pruning saw, cutting back to a healthy bud or branch collar. Avoid leaving stubs, which can die back and let in decay.

For most deciduous trees and shrubs, late winter to early spring is ideal for formative pruning. But there are exceptions. Do not prune cherries, plums or other Prunus species in spring – they are prone to silver leaf infection, so wait until mid-summer. Birch and maple bleed heavily if cut in spring; prune them in late summer instead. If you are coppicing hazel or willow, however, spring is traditional – more on that later.

Check tree ties and stakes. As trunks thicken, ties can bite. Loosen them to allow a finger’s width of movement. Remove stakes from trees planted more than two years ago if they are stable.

Sow wildflowers for a living carpet

A woodland garden without undergrowth is just a plantation. Spring is the moment to sow native wildflowers that will support pollinators and build resilience. Prepare a seed bed by clearing weeds – especially perennial grasses – and raking the soil to a fine tilth. Don’t enrich the soil; wildflowers prefer poor conditions. If your soil is fertile, mix in some horticultural sand or remove the top layer.

Choose species suited to your light levels. For dappled shade, try wood anemone, greater stitchwort, foxglove, red campion and hedge bedstraw. In deeper shade, bluebell, wood sorrel and wild garlic will colonise slowly. Sow seed thinly and press it into the surface – don’t bury it deeply. Many woodland wildflowers need a period of cold to germinate, so if you sow in spring, expect some to wait until next year. Water gently in dry spells and keep the area free of vigorous weeds.

Alternatively, plant plug plants for quicker results. Space them 20–30cm apart and water well until established.

Tend the woodland floor

Spring is the time to divide clumps of snowdrops, winter aconites and other early bulbs – but wait until the leaves have yellowed and died back. Lift the clumps, tease them apart and replant immediately at the same depth. This keeps them flowering well and spreads them through the garden.

Clear invasive species before they take hold. Brambles, ivy and sycamore seedlings can smother woodland flora. Pull them by hand when the soil is moist, or cut them back and mulch heavily. Leave some dead wood and leaf litter in place – it is habitat for beetles, fungi and hibernating creatures. Create a log pile in a shady corner. Avoid disturbing nesting birds and hedgehogs; check before strimming or mowing long grass.

Coppice and craft from the spring cut

If you manage hazel, willow or sweet chestnut, spring is the traditional coppicing season – before the sap rises too far. Cut stems close to the stool at a slight angle so water runs off. This stimulates vigorous new growth and provides a sustainable harvest of rods for craft.

Sort your cut material by size. Straight hazel rods make excellent pea sticks, plant supports and bean poles. Thinner stems can be woven into simple hurdles or edging. Willow whips can be twisted into wreaths or used for living structures. Birch twigs, cut before the leaves unfurl, are perfect for besom brooms or decorative bundles. Even prunings from apple or cherry can become rustic handles or garden markers.

• Hazel rods: pea sticks, bean poles, plant supports.
• Willow whips: wreaths, living structures, basket bases.
• Birch twigs: besom brooms, decorative bundles.
• Fruitwood prunings: rustic handles, garden markers.

Don’t waste the brash. Bundle it into habitat piles for insects and small mammals, or chip it for paths. If you’re weaving, soak dry rods for a few days before bending to avoid snaps. For fresh green wood, work it the same day – it is supple and forgiving.

Keep watering and watching

Spring weather is fickle. A warm, dry spell can stress newly planted trees and wildflowers. Water deeply once a week rather than little and often – this encourages roots to go down. Check for pests and diseases: aphids on new shoots, vine weevil damage in pots, and the first signs of honey fungus (white fungal sheets under bark).

Most of all, take time to observe. Walk your woodland garden weekly. Note which trees leaf first, where the sun falls, which wildflowers appear. Your care will be better for it – and so will the craft you make from the wood you tend.